In an effort to try and seat the shaft to how far it extended originally, I placed a folder towel on the center of the back/bottom of the tub, and used a 1 1/2 foot 4x4 block of wood and carefully gave it a few hard pops with a hammer. If you had to replace the spider which is also the tub shaft also like I did because a waited too long and trashed it too, in my case it did not easily slip completely into place, through the inner holes of the bearings. The next ussue you may run into is seating the drum back into the rear tub assembly. If you made it this far, the hard part is over. If you nicked then or crushed the edges in any way that causes the otherwise perfect circle to push in and potentially put undo pressure on the new bearing, you'll need to grind or file it down so the new bearing will fit into the chase properly, and not apply pressure to one spot of the bearing after you get it fully seated into the chase. Once you get the bearings out and the chases on both sides and the chases cleaned up. The chases are manufactured into the rear tub assembly. DO NOT damage the bearing chases pounding out the opposite side bearing by resting your punch or extension against the edges of the opposite chases, (polished male recessed ring the bearings slide into) or you'll end up having to also buy a rear tub assembly at about $125.00. If you find you are wearing out your arm pounding, add more penetrating oil and take another break. Don't use a screw driver! If you don't have a good flat head punch or some sockets you don't mind possibly sacrificing, go buy a good steel flat head punch. Warning! Don't use the the wrong tools when pounding out the bearings. Now, flip the tub assembly over and tap / pound out the other bearing the same way. And switch positions a lot, few pops with your hammer and move to the opposite side 12-6, 9-3 on the clock and so on, over and over until you drive it out. So be careful to use a solid flat head punch or socket like I did to avoid scoring the walls of the bearing chase. You may be working through the inner hole in the old bearings opposite the bearing your are pounding out, and won't be able to see well what you are tapping or pounding on when you remove the first bearing. Understand the bearings are made of hardened steel and your socket is not so as you tap and pound out the bearings, keep an eye on the damage you may be doing to the socket. Get the right tools: I used a 1" deep well socket with a square edge so I could get a good grab on the left over outer ring of the bearing, and a 6" extension.
#LG WD100CW FREE#
Drench both bearings with some kind of penetrating oil like lock-ease or WD-40 so it will free up the bearings from the chase they are seated into, and go relax for while, (I waited until the next day and it payed off big-time). First, remove the pieces that are falling off or broken out and clean up the area so you can see what you are doing. Pounding out the old bearings or remaining outer ring from the bearing chases in the rear tub assembly might be tough. Most likely your bearings are trashed, (that was what was making all the noise) and rusted in place. Once you have the tub out and the rear tub assembly with the bad bearings unbolted from the front half, and have tapped out the tub spider / shaft. Don't be intimidated, it's not that hard if you watch the video, just a lot of steps. The repair requires that you completely remove the tub. It will make the repair much easier, trust me. Do a search on this site or with the main bearing part number: 4280fr4048. APP did a great job explaining the steps of the repair.
Watch this video before you start tearing your LG apart. ( I am however pretty mechanically inclined.) I knew enough to know the bearings must be bad but had never done this repair before. You're doing more damage and will need more parts to fix it.Īfter the noise became unbearable, I began to explore and disassemble. If your LG Front load washers sounds like a freight train, STOP USING IT. Appliance: LG Washer WM2101HW My Repair & Advice
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